Korean Lash Lift: The Asian Evolution That Is Changing the Lash Lift

The Future of Lashes: Why the Korean Lash Lift is the Ultimate Trend for 2026

If you have been monitoring the beauty industry lately, you’ll know that "K-Beauty" isn't just a trend—it's a revolution. The latest phenomenon taking social media by storm is the Korean Lash Lift. While traditional lash lifts have dominated the market for years, this "Asian Evolution" is fundamentally changing the service for both technicians and clients. By prioritising lash health over harsh chemicals, the Korean method offers a softer, more "doll-like" curl that specifically addresses the needs of stubborn, downward-growing lashes.

What Is Korean Lamination / Korean Lash Lift?

A Korean Lash Lift is a semi-permanent treatment that uses advanced, Cysteamine-based formulas to lift and curl natural lashes from the root. Unlike the traditional "eyelash perm," which often relies on Thioglycolic Acid (TGA), the Korean system uses gentler active ingredients that nourish the hair cortex while it reshapes. This makes it the best choice for clients with sensitive eyes or those seeking a natural lash enhancement without the risk of over-processing.

So, what are the key characteristics of Asian lamination?

1. Use of Powder 
The powder acts as a gelling agent and is mixed with the first and/or second perming solution. Not all powders are the same: some perform exceptionally well, others are too mild, while some are so strong that they make removal difficult or interfere with the uniformity of the curl during the treatment.

2. Use of Cysteamine
(Cysteamine is an alternative to the more commonly used active ingredient, ammonium thioglycolate. Both function as reducing agents during the phase in which the hair’s shape is modified.)
It is often claimed that the first solution used in lash lamination should contain cysteamine, as it is considered more delicate during the physico-chemical process that allows the lashes to change curvature.

3. “L-Shaped” Curl or a Strong Root Lift
In our opinion, this is the most distinctive feature of Korean lash lamination. The effect creates an “L-shaped” bend at the root area, or at least a curl that is significantly more pronounced than the European standard.

Korean Lamination on a European Eye Structure

Below, you can see both the results we observed using the authentic Korean technique and the regrowth after 1–2 months.

Regrowth result of Korean lash lift.

The Tech Difference: Glueless Lash Lift Techniques

The most significant technical shift in this evolution is the move toward glueless lash lifting. Traditional methods use heavy adhesives to fix lashes to a silicone shield, which can create a barrier, leading to uneven processing. The Korean method often replaces classic glue with a "Glue Balm" or a specialized thickening powder mixed into the solutions. This allows the lifting cream to penetrate the lash instantly and evenly, resulting in a cleaner, more defined curl that can last up to 8–10 weeks.

Why It’s Perfect for Asian Eye Shapes

The Korean Lash Lift was specifically developed to tackle the unique structure of Asian lashes, which tend to be straight, thick, and downward-growing. Standard shields often struggle to provide a vertical lift for these lash types. However, the Korean evolution introduces flat-type shields and M1/M2 "K-Beauty" curls that provide a sophisticated, wide-awake effect. This "micro-lift" approach ensures that even the shortest, most stubborn lashes are captured and lifted comfortably.

The Korean Lamination Protocol: What Changes Compared to the Classic Technique

After closely observing the technique, studying various interpretations, and understanding the logic behind the Korean lash lift, we decided to reproduce every step in our laboratories. It was essential to analyse not only the final outcome, but especially the behaviour of the lash during each phase, as Korean lamination follows a dynamic very different from that of the European technique.

For this reason, during our InLei® tests, we chose to use an experimental gelling powder formulated in-house. This allowed us full control over the reactions and enabled precise evaluation of every step. It’s important to note that when using products from other brands, quantities, ratios, and timings may need to be adjusted, as performance depends heavily on the specific formulation.

Let’s now look at what emerged from our testing and how the Korean lamination protocol develops step by step.

Initial Mixture and Application of the Korean Lash Lift

The first difference from the classic protocol concerns the use of the first solution. In our case, InLei® Form 1 is mixed with 10% powder.

The mixture is applied along the entire length of the lashes, maintaining approximately 1 mm distance from the roots, without using a shield (IMG A). Alternatively, a so-called transitional shield can be used (in the InLei® system, the Forma shield), on which the lashes are laid “backwards,” almost towards the eyelid (IMG B).

This is the first phase of Korean lamination, whose primary purpose is to soften the lash structure. In our tests, we used the InLei® reducing solution based on ammonium thioglycolate and observed no alteration in the hair structure, even when applied along the full length.

For more fragile lashes, it may be beneficial to remove the product from the tips after approximately three minutes of exposure using InLei® Saline Pretreatment. This product does not stop the chemical process but gently slows it down, providing greater control over the final result.

Processing Time in the Korean Lash Lift

During Korean lamination, exposure times are generally longer than in Classical lamination — even when using cysteamine-based products — because the lashes are not kept under tension by glue, as they are in the classic technique.

A lash stretched on a shield using a glue such as InLei® Fixing Gel, which maintains tension, absorbs the product differently from a fully relaxed lash. This is why adapting processing times is essential.

Left: Lash Filler 25.9 technique – exposure time: 11 minutes

Right: Asian lamination technique on the same lash – exposure time: 14 minutes

Cysteamine-based product: approximately 16 minutes

In other words, the same lash type can behave very differently depending on whether it is under tension or relaxed.

Second Step of the Korean Lash Lift: Mixing with Powder and Application on the Shield

Another major difference between the classic protocol and Korean lamination involves the second solution, InLei® Lash Fix 2. This solution is mixed with 20–30% powder and used to place the lashes onto the chosen shield to achieve the desired curl.

Important Notes

• Avoid creating a mixture that is too thick, as it may compromise the final effect. At the same time, ensure sufficient product is used.
• At this stage, lashes are extremely fragile, so movements should be kept to a minimum.
  When using InLei® Helper, movements should be single, precise, and gentle — never repetitive. Alternatively, softer tools such as InLei® Softies are recommended.  
• Once the lashes are perfectly aligned, they should be secured at the base using InLei® Lash Stopper to prevent small anagen hairs from shifting and affecting curl uniformity.

From this point, the remaining steps of the chosen classic technique can be followed — for example, with Lash Filler 25.9, this includes tinting, nourishment, rinsing, and finally molecular reconstruction.

Variations and Interpretations of the Korean Technique

There are multiple ways to interpret the Korean technique, as professionals often adapt it to their habits and desired outcomes. Some choose to apply plastic film to accelerate the action of cysteamine — although this can be contradictory, as the ingredient’s gentleness relies on slow and controlled action.

Others use cups or additional tools to enhance the result, aiming for a more defined curl or a stronger eye-opening effect.

These variations highlight how Korean lash lamination is still an evolving technique. While personalisation is interesting, it is crucial to remember that not all solutions work harmoniously together. Straying too far from the core principles can lead to uneven results or outcomes unsuitable for the natural lash structure.

A Conscious Approach to the Korean Technique

As always, the most important factor is a deep understanding of the process and the synergy between products. Not all combinations work in harmony, and sometimes certain steps — such as nourishment — may fail to perform their intended cosmetic function, affecting the balance of the final result. This is an aspect that should not be underestimated when exploring a technique that, while fascinating, is still being defined.

Lash Health: Cysteamine vs. Thioglycolate

In 2026, clients are more ingredient-conscious than ever. The secret to the Korean method’s success is the use of Cysteamine HCL. While traditional perming agents can leave lashes feeling parched or brittle, Cysteamine is an amino acid-derived ingredient that maintains the lash's structural integrity. This allows technicians to bring the solution all the way to the tips—a "pro-no" in traditional lifting—to ensure a uniform, fluttery finish that remains soft and glossy as it grows out.

The "Bare-Faced but Enhanced" Vibe

The aesthetic goal of a Korean Lash Lift is the "puppy eye" or "doll-eye" look—a softer, more youthful swoop rather than a rigid, 90-degree bend. It perfectly complements the "Quiet Luxury" and "Clean Girl" beauty trends of today. For clients who want to wake up looking put-together without the maintenance of eyelash extensions, this service is the ultimate low-maintenance beauty hack.

Conclusion

We consider this technique interesting and full of real potential. However, it is clear that further behind-the-scenes testing is still required. As mentioned, it must be adapted to the characteristics of European lashes and orbital structures in order to become a safe, certified procedure compliant with European Cosmetic Regulations. Only then can we speak of a stable and truly industrialised evolution of “Korean” lamination.

We have already begun referring to our version as InLei® Italian Style — a reinterpreted approach that we are developing step by step, driven by the desire to bring techniques to the industry that are truly effective, safe, and sustainable over time.

Final Thoughts: Should You Make the Switch?

For Lash Technicians, the Korean Lash Lift isn't just an add-on; it’s a career upgrade. It offers faster application times, higher client satisfaction for those with "difficult" lashes, and a healthier grow-out phase. As the beauty world shifts toward sustainable, health-first treatments, the Korean method is the gold standard that will keep your appointment book full.

Tatiana, InLei® Staff, and the InLei® Family worldwide

Source / Credit: This article is an English translation of an original post published by InLei® (Italy) on the LashInBrow blog. Translated and republished with permission.