Worried About Retention? | Tips and Tricks for Longer Lasting Lash Extensions
Retention has been every Lash Artist’s biggest worry since eyelash extensions were invented!
You’ve got a client coming back with only 30% of their lashes after two weeks, what’s the issue? They don’t wash them? The glue was old? Well, what if we tell you that YOU are in charge of the retention for every client that comes to you, and in 90% of cases it is up to you to make sure that clients’ lashes last? Don't believe us? Read on...
Here are Hanna Putjato – founder of London Lash's – top 3 retention tips for beginner lash technicians:
Preparation is Key!
A pretreatment routine sounds like an obvious thing, however we know how many lash technicians are either ignoring this step or don’t pay as much attention to it as they should. In order for lashes to last, each lash needs to be free of any oils, dust and makeup.
It’s easy enough to spot mascara on the lashes, but can you spot the transparent eye serum your client applied on their lashes in the morning? This is where the biggest problem is – most of the products which are preventing a glue from sticking to the natural lash properly are invisible to the naked eye, so be very thorough when cleaning the lashes.
If your client comes in with no makeup, you should still at least make sure you use Cleanser to break down any leftover oils, makeup residue and anything else on each lash from root to tip - focussing on that attachment area - and then use Primer to rehydrate the lashes, preparing them for perfect application.
On average, the best lash technicians will spend at least 10 minutes on the preparation of the lashes, not just 2 minutes!
Okay, this one is a big one. The way you apply your lashes is absolutely crucial for great retention. Two of the biggest issues with the application among many lash artists is either slow attachment, (glue is already half dry when the extension is placed on the natural lash so can't form a strong bond between the extension and natural lash) or shaky hands, which can be the result of caffeine, or a lack of confidence if you're not yet too experienced.
In order to achieve great retention, the extension needs to be stuck on the natural lash in a fast and steady motion. This can only be achieved through practice and experience, so please don’t panic or give up if you experience inconsistent retention within your first two years of work – your retention will gradually become better as you complete more and more sets. We promise, we’ve been through it too!
Many lash technicians are afraid to grab a bit more lash extensions adhesive because they are worried about stickies. This is exactly right! Too much glue makes your lash set look messy and you might end up with unwanted stickies, which are in equal parts uncomfortable and unsafe for your clients.
However, grabbing too little glue can also have an impact on your retention. Make sure your attachment area is at least 2-3 mm (if you're not sure what this looks like, grab a ruler and get familiar with this measurement!). Make sure too, that when you are dipping the extension into the glue that the layer of glue on the extension is not too thin, seeing a tiny little bulb of glue at the end of the extension is a good thing!
Lash extensions glue is a mixture of different ingredients, so in order to make sure it works the same way every time you apply the lashes, you need to shake it. Unshaken glue will cause you all sorts of problems, and the good news is that you can use a glue shaker which speeds up the process, and ensures that glue doesn't even get into the nozzle like it can with hand shaking.
Don’t forget to keep your nozzle clean, keep your bottle tightly closed all the time you are not using it, and store it away from direct sunlight, sources of heat, and humid places.