The Science Behind Classic Lashes - How to Choose the Right Lashes

As a lash technician, it can be a bit overwhelming to pick out the right eyelash extensions products for classic lashes - couple that with the fact that there is so much information out there about what you should use and some of it’s outdated, which could potentially lead to lash damage! 

Luckily for you, we’re here to help keep you up to date! 

Classic eyelash extensions are very safe, as long as they’re applied properly with the right thickness of extension.

What Do We Mean by Proper Application? 

Each individual eyelash should be isolated before an extension is placed on them, so you’ll need a good pair of isolation tweezers. Every single eyelash is growing, so if you have two lashes stuck together, this can lead to permanent follicle damage. 

Proper application also refers to the amount of glue used for much the same reason as the above - too much glue = stickies in your set. If you find that you have too much glue on an extension, simply dip it slowly back into the glue drop and pull it back out slowly. If your glue is stringy, it’s time to replace the drop. 

If you find that you’re having to hold the extension on the lash for a long time or you’re ending up with lots of stickies at the end of your treatment, it might be time to look for a faster drying glue, but check first that your humidity isn’t very low, as this is a very easy fix! 

Which Lashes Should you use for Classic Lash Extensions?

There are lots of thicknesses for a reason - different clients have different needs! Let’s have a closer look at which thicknesses are available for classic eyelash extensions, and which are best to use.

0.10 will give a very natural look and will be safe for everyone’s lashes without weighing them down. These lashes can also be used for 2D volume, which means that this thickness lends itself well to hybrid extensions as well as classics! 

0.12 & 0.15 will each give you more of a mascara effect, it adds bulk without being super dramatic, turns heads without being super obvious and just gives your client a little je ne sais quoi! These thicknesses are each safe for the vast majority of your clients, just double check those clients who have recently undergone treatments such as chemotherapy, as they are likely to have finer hairs which don’t have a strong root. 

0.18 classic lashes are really the thickest you should go in order to ensure lash safety. When eyelash extensions were first taking off, it wasn’t uncommon to see 0.30 lashes (side note, in my 5 years with LLP I’ve seen ONE 0.30 lash on a student’s model, they are unbelievably thick and definitely too heavy to ensure lash health in the long term!) 

0.20 & 0.25 While 0.20 are available in regular classic lashes, I’d advise that you ONLY use them for clients with very very thick, strong natural lashes in order to prevent damage. Better yet, opt for these thicknesses in flat lashes, as these give you all the drama but only weigh around half as much as a regular classic lash!

For a list of our favourite products for classic eyelash extensions,check out this blog post