The SPACE between the lashes in a fan will indicate if the fan is narrow, normal or wide. Most importantly, if the opening of the fan is not symmetrical this can create a wonky or closed fan (every lash tech's worst nightmare!) If you were creating a 5d lash look and 3 lashes on the fan were closed, the fan would look out of place amongst all the other 5d symmetrical fans, and will result in a gappy finish, rather than that gorgeous fluff we all aspire to!
The next element is the BODY OF THE FAN. This should make up 2 thirds of your fan whereas the BASE OF THE FAN should make up around 1 third. REMEMBER, the base of your fan should ALWAYS be tapered otherwise the base will split, not attach properly causing poor retention, stickies and discomfort for your client!
Another crucial element to the ‘Perfect Fan' is the GLUE ZONE. This is situated right at the base of the fan. It represents the 2mm section of base that should be dipped into your glue! Anything less than 2mm can cause retention problems.
REMEMBER to choose the thickness of the lashes you use for your fan based on your client’s natural lashes! You don’t want to damage the natural lash by placing heavy/oversized fans.
The General Rule of thumb is as follows:
0.03/ 0.04 lashes
Volume up to 9d
Volume up to 5d
This will of course depend on the finish your client is looking for - you can absolutely complete a full 3D set with 0.05 lashes or a light fluttery look!
When it comes to actually creating the PERFECT fan, there are a variety of methods to choose from! As with learning any new skill, you may find a period of trial & error is beneficial, whilst you discover which fanning technique works the best for YOU! Here are our TOP 3 fanning techniques & how you can use them to create the PERFECT fans for your clients...
LONELY FAN METHOD
The lonely fan method involves pulling the number of lashes that you want to make into a fan from the rest of the bunch and re-sticking it further along the strip. You then use the tip of your volume tweezers to roll the lashes outwards, creating a beautiful fan. Pick up the fan with control and a strong grip, dip into the glue and affix to the natural lash. It’s one of the most commonly seen techniques, and is ideal for beginners.
This technique gives a flatter base, so is ideal for attachment to the top or bottom of the lashes.
The Rainbow method is also known as the rolling technique, it’s similar to the Lonely Fan method, but instead of taking your selected lashes away from the group, you leave them there, use your tweezers, & roll the lashes to the side, creating a fan!
This method will create more of a ‘stacked’ base, so is great for attaching the fan to the side of the natural lash.
The pinching methodlooks simple, but there’s a little bit of technical wizardry involved with getting them right and not ending up with twisted bases.
Begin by taking the lashes that you want from the strip, then place them between your thumb and index finger at the first knuckle in each, maintaining grip with your tweezers. When the lash base is safely between your fingers, gently loosen your grip with the tweezers and at the same time pinch the base together with your thumb. It’s SO important not to roll the base here - this will twist the base and make your fan useless. It’s called the pinching method for a reason!
If you need to open the fan more, wiggle with your tweezers and keep pinching the base with your thumb and forefinger. When you have the perfect fan, grip tightly with your tweezers, dip in the glue, attach to the natural lash.
This is one of the trickier techniques but possibly the most satisfying to master and most hypnotising to watch, so is at least worth a try!
This technique produces more of a stacked base, so lends itself well to affixing to the side of the natural lash.
All in all, perfection comes with practice, so our biggest tip is perseverance! Remember that certain techniques may be difficult to grasp initially, but with practice they will become natural to you!
Blog post is prepared by London Lash Expert, Miren Howarth
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