9 COMMON MISTAKES BEGINNER LASH ARTISTS OFTEN MAKE
Whether or not we like to admit it, we're all highly likely to be making these mistakes as beginners, and if we don't correct that, those mistakes may very well become habits which will have a lasting impact on our lash career in the future!
1. Using too much or too little adhesive
If you have been wondering why your client's lashes are not lasting as long as they should be, it is probably because of the amount of glue you’re using during the treatment. So firstly, do not swipe the lash in the glue, this will just create a film of adhesive on the extension and will dry before it gets a good grip on the lash.
Try and scoop the glue but not too much. You just want the tiniest ball of glue on the lash, not a big blob.
Top Tip - If you get too much glue on your lash, scoop slower, if you scoop the lash out too fast, you will notice there is too much glue.
2. Taking too much time to isolate the “perfect lash”
Have you ever noticed you spent quite a bit of time just trying to isolate one lash? Well, this is actually very common. A lot of new lash artists look for an ideal natural lash to apply the extension to - always keep in mind that every lash needs an extension applying to it, so it really doesn't matter which lash you choose to do first. Top Tip: If you do the difficult baby lashes first and get them out of the way, you won’t be too tired towards the end of the treatment and you will only have the easy lashes left to do!
3. Incorrect styling
It is so important you know how to correctly style lashes. You have to determine which length, thickness and curl will be appropriate for your client. Remember to consider things such as natural lash growth direction, client's facial bone structure, eye shape and distance of the eyes. For example, most clients want the “cat eye” look, but only a very small handful of people actually have the correct eye shape to pull off this look. This is something you really need to take into consideration. Most looks require mixing at least 2 different curls, this way they will blend better and look more natural. Too thick extensions or too big fans are not good for long term wear, they can seriously damage the natural lash if it can not handle the weight - keep these for special occasions ONLY.
4. Not following the correct pre-treatment
It is so important to follow the correct pre-treatment before you begin your eyelash application. You need to ensure that your client has absolutely no makeup, dust or grime on her lashes. You can use lash shampoo or protein remover pads to clean the lashes and for best results always follow up with cleanser and primer. Also, remember a correct pre-treatment isn’t just for new sets. Make sure you have a thorough pre-treatment when doing infills also. You can use microfibre brushes or lipgloss applicator brushes to get the roots squeaky clean.
Top Tip: Ask your clients to come without makeup or at least avoid waterproof mascara on the treatment day. I don’t know if any of you have ever tried to remove waterproof mascara, but what a pain! You can only use oil-based makeup remover to get rid and this is just wasting valuable lash time.
5. Distance from the eyelid
Getting the correct distance from the lid is very tricky and requires a lot of experience and practice to get it perfect. They are either too close to the lid or too far off. However, both are bad. If you get the lash too close to the lid it will be very uncomfortable or even painful for your client. The lash and the adhesive will irritate their skin. Sticking the lash too far from the lid is not as bad as getting it to close, however, it will eventually grow much quicker than the other lashes and will be too heavy for the root of the natural lash. It will also look very messy and could cause the extensions to twist. The ideal distance is between 0.5-1mm from the lid. However, this depends on your experience. But remember it is better to keep it further away than too close.
Stickies are the single most important thing to watch out for when applying lashes. The reason it is so important to check your work for stickies is that they are extremely damaging to the natural lashes. The first step to prevent stickies is to correctly isolate the lash. Checking your work for stickies is as important a part of your lash procedure as applying eyepatches - it’s all about safety! Always ensure you save 10 minutes at the end of a treatment in order to do this thoroughly and correctly. The first way you can check for stickies is to check each individual lash from root to tip with your tweezers, not forgetting to check every natural lash to ensure that any baby lashes are not stuck anywhere. Secondly, you will need to check layers because lashes don’t grow in just one row - you are almost guaranteed to find at least one stickie between the layers!
7. Not using a map
Even the most experienced lash artists always use a lash map - it doesn’t add much time to the treatment but has a major effect on the overall look. Symmetry is the absolute key when doing lashes and without a map, it will be extremely difficult to remember which lash you used where. When you start working with layers you will know that you need to put a longer lash on the bottom layers and a shorter lash on the top layers, so that when your client opens their eyes, they will have that beautiful perfect lash look and mapping is essential to achieve this.
Top Tip: Start the mapping when your client has their eyes open, use an eyeliner/brow pencil to mark off the middle of the eye (where iris is) on the eyelid. When client's eyes are shut, it makes it very tricky to determine where the middle of their eye is.
8. Bad Lash Direction.
This is one of the most common mistakes for beginner lash artists. There are 2 types of directions: The base direction, we usually like to follow what is called a “sunrise” (as shown in image) this helps you remember which direction the lashes should always go. Just think of the beams coming off the sun. You want the inner and outer corner lashes to fan outwards, not head straight. The next type of direction is the tip direction - even if you fan the extensions out perfectly but are not keeping an eye on the TIPS of the extensions, the overall look will appear very messy. The curlier the extensions, the more important it is (and more difficult to keep an eye on)
Top Tip: Use a mirror to check the directions of the tips throughout the treatment.
9. Not placing eyepatches correctly.
Eyepatches! I remember placing my first patches like it was yesterday. It can feel daunting and scary but it is the base of a good set of lashes.
If the eyepatches are placed incorrectly it will be extremely uncomfortable for your client it will also lift up the inner corner lashes, resulting in the wrong distance and an overall messy look when your client opens their eyes. The eyepatches should never ever be touching the waterline. This will also be very uncomfortable for your client and could lead to a chemical burn, or even more serious. It could lead to bruising on the eyes... ouch.
Top Tip: If you find that your eyepatches lift in the inner corners for some clients due to their eye shape, or if they have trouble closing their eyes completely leading to chemical burns, try using Foam Tape in place of eyepatches. You can still draw your lash map on them, you can cut them to the ideal shape for your client and you actually save money by using it, which is a great thing when you're just starting out!